Worley’s Tomato, Pepper, Basil and Eggplant

Selections for 2009

Updated 3/19/09

Tomatoes

• Aussie: A favorite heirloom tomato variety from Australia. And a favorite of mine for the past 10 years as a dependable red heirloom tomato for the market, home and as a show tomato.  Our organic tomato seeds produce indeterminate, regular-leaf tomato plants that dependably yield picture-perfect, copious amounts of 1-2 lb., glossy-red, meaty, fluted, beefsteak tomatoes that are LOADED with delicious, bold, rich and complex tomatoey flavors. Great disease resistance. Good show tomato. One to impress your friends with….A winner!

• Beam’s Yellow Pear: These organic tomato seeds produce huge, bushy plants that yield very large quantities of 1 oz., 1 1/2-inch, bright yellow, pear-shaped cherry tomatoes that will give you fruit until frost. The tomatoes of this yellow pear tomato variety are zesty sweet and delicious. A beautiful salad or snackin’ tomato. If you are growing several colors of cherry tomatoes include this one. A great tomato choice for a patio or planter garden. A good producer even in cooler coastal regions.

• Black Cherry: The only truly black cherry tomato. Organic tomato seeds produce large, sprawling, indeterminate, regular-leaf, vigorous tomato plants that yield abundant crops in huge clusters of 1″, round, deep purple, mahogany-brown cherry tomatoes. Fruits are irresistibly delicious with sweet, rich, complex, full tomato flavors that burst in your mouth, characteristic of the best flavorful black tomatoes. Beautiful to mix with other colored cherry tomatoes. Unique tomato variety. Disease resistant.

• Black From Tula: Russian  heirloom from Tula. Largest of the blacks with 3-4″, slightly flattened, oblate, dark brown to purple fruit with deep green shoulders. Deliciously outstanding, rich, slightly salty, smoky-fruit flavor.!!

• Black Krim: Originally from the Isle of Krim on the Black Sea in the former Soviet Union. This rare, and outstanding tomato yields 3-4″ slightly flattened dark-red (mahogany-colored) slightly maroon, beefsteak tomatoes with deep green shoulders. Green gel around seeds. Fantastic, intense, slightly salty taste (which is great for those not wanting to add salt to their tomatoes).

• Box Car Willie: Box Car Willie is a slightly flattened New Jersey tomato variety by Joe Bratka’s father. (most likely named for the country western singer). Organic tomato seeds produce indeterminate, regular-leaf, tall, vigorous, tomato plants that yield abundant crops of 10 to 16-ounce, smooth, bright-orange/red slicer tomatoes with distinctly delicious well-balanced, rich, sweet that have sufficient acid to push the flavors forward and guarantee this variety as a good choice for a canning tomato, sauce tomato or salad tomato or perfect for tomato juice. A good all season tomato that produces well until frost. Box Car Willie is a staple in our home garden. Good resistance to disease and cracking.

• Brandywine: Probably the first heirloom to achieve “cult status” within the growing popularity of heirloom tomatoes. A pink, potato-leaf, Amish variety from the 1880’s. Years ago, seed saving was done by individuals who understood that the greatest thing they could pass on to the next generation was some of the treasured food plants that had sustained life and had proven their value. One such pioneer was a man named Ben Quinsenbury, who lived in Vermont. He died at the age of 95, passing on his legacy. The Brandywine was Ben’s favorite tomato. Fruits are reddish-pink, with light, creamy flesh that average 12 ounces but can grow to 2 pounds

• Cherokee Purple: Heirloom from Tennessee cultivated by Native American Cherokee tribe.  Very productive plants producing loads of dusky rose to purple colored, 12 oz.-1 lb.,  beefsteak tomatoes with deep red colors to the interior flesh and dark shoulders. A very popular market variety because of it’s rich, complex and sweet flavors. One of the best tasting heirloom tomatoes.

• Cuostralee: A French beefsteak heirloom that produces heavy quantities of huge (1-2 lbs.), red, blemish-free fruits that have intense, balanced flavors. Fruits are typically 4-inches across.

• Giant Belgium: Developed in Ohio in this variety is known mostly for it’s size and delicious flavor. Dark pink fruit that averages 2-lbs. (but can get to 5 lbs.) is meaty with few seeds. Great for cooking and canning.

• Julia Child: he tall, indeterminate, potato-leaf plant produces lots of 4-inch, deep-pink, lightly-fluted, beefsteak fruits that have the kind of robust tomatoey flavors and firm, juicy flesh that invites tomato feasting and seed-saving.

• KBX: Deep apricot orange beefsteak, creamy texture, side locules with few-moderate amount of seeds 3-4 inches in diameter with most in the 12-16 ounce range. Some can get over 18 ounces. Nice balance of sweet/acid taste that holds its own. Thin skin, but not prone to cracking or splitting that I have observed. Not sure how well it lasts off the vine as most don’t make it past supper in my house. Fairly disease tolerant – still does well when all around have succumbed to F wilt. Seedlings don’t seem to have the CRUD that RL Kellogg’s Breakfast is prone to getting. Fairly heat tolerant – produces nicely in the hot, humid coastal Virginia summer. Puts on a nice flush of fruits in September when temperatures begin to cool down.

• Kellogg’s Breakfast: 1 lb., pale to deep orange beefsteak tomatoes originally from West Virginia, that are thin-skinned, meaty, have few seeds and a fantastic sweet, tangy flavor. Juice and inside flesh have the same bright orange color as orange juice

• Mortgage Lifter Radiator Charlie’s: Developed by M.C. Byles in the 1930’s, this tomato remains very much in demand in the Mid-Atlantic states. Mr. Byles, affectionately known as “Radiator Charlie” earned his nickname from the radiator repair business he opened at the foot of a steep hill on which trucks would often overheat. Radiator Charlie, who had no formal education or plant breeding experience, created this legendary tomato by cross-breeding four of the largest tomatoes he was able to find and developed a stable variety after six years of pollination and selection. He then sold his tomato plants for one dollar each (in the 1940’s) and paid off the six thousand dollar mortgage on his house in six years. It is said that each spring, gardeners drove as far as 200 miles to buy Charlie’s seedling tomatoes. The large, slightly flattened, pink-red fruits that range from 1 pound to more than 3 pounds, are meaty, very flavorful and have few seeds.

• Martino’s Roma: prolific heirloom that produces an abundant crop of richly flavored, 3″, red pear tomatoes that are perfect for cooking but sweet enough to enjoy fresh. Meaty with few seeds. Great for canning, adding to sauces, or making paste

• Opalka: An heirloom originally from Poland. One of the best tasting paste tomatoes with 5-inch long fruit shaped like a banana pepper with a pronounced tip on the bottom. Fruit has very few seeds, is extremely meaty and loaded with rich sweet flavors lending to it’s sauce appeal

• Omar’s Lebanese: A disease resistant, vigorous heirloom originating from a Lebanese hill town producing large, pink, irregularly-shaped beefsteak tomatoes. Fruits typically weigh 1 1/2 lbs. and can reach more than 3 lbs. A good boasting tomato with rich complex flavors.

• Paul Robeson: Seed for this Russian heirloom was made available by Marina Danilenko, a Moscow seedswoman. This favorite tomato was named after the operatic artist who won acclaim as an advocate of equal rights for Blacks. His artistry was admired world-wide, especially in the Soviet Union. This “black” beefsteak tomato is slightly flattened, round, and grows to 4-inches. It’s deep, rich colors stand it apart from others…a dusky, dark-red, with dark-green shoulders, and red flesh in it’s center. Very flavorful fruits with luscious,  earthy, exotic flavors and good acid/sweet balance. Paul Robeson (aka Pol Robeson) won “Best of Show” at Carmel TomatoFest. As this variety originates from Siberiaa and sets fruits at lower temps, it is an excellent choice for cooler growing regions

• Pink Ping Pong: his heirloom produces amazing yields of sweet pink fruits the size of ping pong balls. Juicy and bursting with superb flavors. Great for salads, canned, or popped in your mouth off the vine.

• Roma VF: Premium canner, ideal for sauce and paste. Pear-shaped scarlet fruits of the Roma (VF) Open-Pollinated Tomato are thick and meaty with few seeds. Determinate. 75 DAYS

• Stupice: This potato-leaf heirloom from Czechoslovakia is a cold-tolerant tomato that bears an abundance of very sweet, flavorful 2 to 3-inch, deep red fruit. A 1988 comparative tasting in the San Francisco area gave it first place for its wonderful sweet/acid, tomatoey flavor and production.

• Super Snow White: Very sweet, 2 oz., ivory-colored tomatoes, larger than Snow White, but similar in taste. They ripen to reach almost the size of ping pong balls. These tomatoes are perfect for cutting in half to expose the beautiful interior and serving in salads

Chile Peppers

• Lilac Sweet Pepper: Attention-catching specialty pepper changes from ivory to lovely lavender! Matures to deep purple. Blocky, medium-sized fruit tempts the palate with its mild sweet flavor and crispy texture. Vigorous plants give excellent sun cover for fruit. (4 left)

• Pepperoncini: Peperoncini grow on a bushy plant that reaches 30 inches (77 cm) in height and produces sweet green peppers that turn red when mature. Usually picked at 2 to 3 inches (5 to 8 cm) long, these bright green, wrinkled peppers taper to a blunt, lobed end.

• Jalapeno M: Pungent 3 1/2-inch fruit delivers 4,750 Scovilles of heat! 73 days. This is the pungent little dark green pepper found in rings atop nachos and chopped in Mexican sauces — both sweet and hot, with an addictive flavor that has made it one of the most popular seasonings in American dishes! Just 3 1/2 inches long and about 1 1/2 inches wide, these rounded, thick-walled fruits are borne in great numbers on very vigorous 26-inch plants. They are ready to pick when dark green, delivering 4,750 Scovilles of heat!

• Fat and Sassy: One of the best “green to mature red” sweet bell peppers. These big, heavy, thick walled, 4 lobed bell peppers have excellent flavor. Great for that Stuffed Pepper recipe. Fruit size of about 4½ inches. Heavy yields. Matures 65 days after transplanting.

• California Wonder: The standard bell pepper for many decades, this 1928 introduction is still the largest open-pollinated, heirloom bell you can grow, and a big improvement over the earlier bells. Consistently produces 3″ X 4″, 4-lobed fruit.

Eggplant

• Bride Hybrid Eggplant: The distinctive coloring of this late maturing Chinese eggplant makes it worth the wait. Glossy white skin is streaked with lavender and topped with a green calyx. The slender fruit grow up to 8″ long. The size of these eggplants makes them ideal for grilling or for shish-kebabs, but the tender flesh is also delicious braised, fried, baked or stir-fried.

• Kermit Hybrid Eggplant: Small, ball-shaped fruit are about 2 inches across and green marbled with white stripes. This is a traditional Thai type of eggplant that is used extensively in many Asian dishes for its distinctive flavor. They are also the perfect size and shape to put on a shish kebab skewer, brush with olive oil, and grill. Vigorous plants yield a very generous harvest.

• Fengyuan Purple Eggplant: This slender Asian eggplant is one of the longest available. Its beautiful purple skin is so thin that peeling is unnecessary and creamy white flesh is reliably mild with no bitterness. Plants produce an abundance of fruit that can grow well over a foot long. Easy to grow and wonderful for grilling or adding to stir fries.

• Green Goddess Eggplant: Incredible harvests of light green slender eggplant that become about 8 inches long. Mild flavor and tremendous production make this a winner for anyone who wants a steady supply of delicious eggplant. Lovely lime green color.

• Vittoria PS Hybrid--cylindrical Italian eggplant that becomes about 10 inches long and 3 inches wide. Glossy deep purple skin with tender flesh that is perfect for slicing into Italian dishes, or marinating and grilling. Tall, upright plants set large numbers of these high-quality fruits. 61 days.

Basil

• Italian Genovese: Ocimum basilicum ‘Genovese’ is an annual native to India, Africa, and Asia. One of the most popular herbs, it is now cultivated in all temperate climates throughout the world. Of all the basils to grow, and there are about 150 varieties, Genovese basil is one of the best because it yields 7 to 8 cuttings and makes the best pesto. In Italy, it is considered a sign of love. When a woman puts out a pot of basil, it means she is ready to receive her suitor. In France, it is called herbe royale. In India, it is sacred, dedicated to Vishnu and Krishna. In Victorian times, it was sent for best wishes in nosegays called tussie-mussies.

• Holy Basil Green Leaf: This is one of the most popular herbs used in Thai cuisines. Plants grow vigorously in warm cliamtes. Pick young leaves and branches for cooking uses. Start seeding in spring/early summer for getting the best results.

• Holy Basil Red Leaf: This variety has beautiful red leaves. Plants are very vigorous and produce lots of leaves for continuous harvests in a long time. This variety is also an ideal decorative container plant for your doorsteps and backyard. This herb is very popular in Thai cooking.

• Siam Queen: This Thai Sweet Basil is very easy to grow. The Plant produces large dark green leaves and purple tips/flowers for using in many Oriental foods. Relatively strong clove-like taste adds wonderful flavor into various soups and dishes. This variety is widely grown by commercial farmers and has become one of the most popular varieties in the markets in Asia. The plant grows very well in sunny and shaded areas. Many people like to grow this basil in containers that can be grown as decorative plants as well as vegetables. One of very nice herbs for home gardens.

• Thai Magic: This variety produces large and bright leaves, which are very popular in Thai food. Large young leaves and stems have very pleasant flavor that is milder than other varieties. Plants grow well in warm weather. This variety is relatively late in flowering, allowing continuous harvests for a long time. A nice variety for growing in open field and garden containers.

• Green Joy: This variety produces deep green stems and leaves, which are relatively milder than purple stem types in flavor. Young leaves are very popular in Chinese cooking. Plants perform very well in warm summer, growing a lot of leaves for cooking uses. A good plant for backyard garden.

• Purple Stem TH: This is another popular sweet basil native to Thailand. Plants are vigorous, strong branching with long purple stems and dark green leaves. Young stems and leaves have strong flavor, which are often used in Thai and Vietnamese soups and dishes. This variety grows best in sunny areas under warm climates. Also a good ornamental plant for growing in a container or backyard.

Broccoli Raab

Although it has broccoli’s name, broccoli raab is not related to broccoli.  It is, however, closely related to turnips, which is probably why the leaves look like turnip greens. Lots of broccoli-like buds appear here and there but a head never forms. It is grown as much for its long-standing, tasty mustard-like tops as for their multiple small florets with clusters of broccoli-like buds.

Good-quality broccoli raab will have bright-green leaves that are crisp, upright, and not wilted. Avoid ones with leaves that are wilted, yellowing, or have dark green patches of slime.

Growing Eggplant

Eggplant is a tender vegetable that is related to the tomato. The bushes grow 5 feet tall with hairy gray-green leaves. The fruit varies is size, shape and color.

Plant Requirements

Eggplants need warm soil and warm temperatures. Temperatures should remain above 68 degrees. Full sun is a must. These heavy feeders should be planted in heavily composted soil with lots of manure, if available. Side dress frequently, especially when the plant begins to bloom. Eggplant is fairly drought tolerant and should not be overwatered as it is susceptible to root rot. Mulching around the plant will help maintain even moisture. Watering may be increased when blooms appear.

Planting

Plant after the ground has warmed and all danger of frost has passed. Seeds should be started indoors at least 8 weeks before transplanting. Place transplants in the garden slightly deeper than they were in their pot. Cold soil will shock the plant and set it back several weeks. In case of an unexpected late frost, cover young plants with hotcaps or milk jugs. Add a tablespoon of balanced fertilizer. Eggplants don’t need or like much fertilizer, so don’t don’t overdo it. It’s a good idea to fertilize again when buds or tiny eggplants appear, but keep it light. Eggplants are suitable for growing in large containers or tubs. Container growing will help prevent soil borne disease.

Harvesting

Your eggplants will taste best when young. Start harvesting when the fruits reach 1/3 their full growth. They are ready once the skins turn glossy. Once the outside skin turns dull they are past their prime and will contain lots of seeds. Cut the stems with a sharp knife to prevent damage to the vine.

Pests and Diseases

Eggplant is a delicacy for insects. Here in the Southern United States, it’s not unusual to set out transplants, and find that two days later all that’s left is the stems (if that). It’s a good idea to spray with an herbal insect spray when transplanting. Aphids, spider mites and caterpillars are the main culprits.

Aphids	Tiny (less than 1/10 inch) soft bodied pear shaped insects with whiplike antennae. Varied in color. Leaves turn yellow.	Plant alliums such as garlic and chives. Anise, coriander, nasturtiums, and petunias may be helpful. Use yellow sticky traps or yellow dishes containing soapy water. Soap-Shield and mint tea spray is highly effective. Lacewings will eat 100 aphids per day.
Caterpillars	They devour huge amounts of leaves and sometimes fruits. They leave behind waste that resembles rabbit pellets.	Fall tilling helps to destroy underground pupae. Rotating crops helps. Interplant with borage (this also improves tomato flavor) opal basil, and marigolds. Dill is a good trap crop. Spray with Bt. They are easily handpicked.
Spider Mites	These little mites live on the underside of leaves and thrive in hot, dry conditions.	Try lightly spraying the undersides of leaves with water daily. Be careful not to soak down you eggplants, as they do not like or need a lot of water. If you find you are infested apply sulfur.

Growing Tomatoes

While technically a fruit, growing tomatoes is a vegetable gardeners delight! Nothing beats the taste of a fresh, vine ripened tomato from the home garden. Originating in Central and South America, they are grown in an ever increasing range of colors, sizes and shapes with the recent interest in heirloom cultivars fueling further interest.

Site Preparation:
Tomatoes are very deep rooted and don’t need nearly as much water as most people believe. They will do much better in the garden soil than in pots and require plenty of sun. Plant after the soil has warmed in the spring in rich, fast draining soil which has been amended with ample amounts of organic compost and calcium to prevent blossom end rot.

How to Plant:
Allow enough space (1-1/2 – 2 feet) between plants to permit good sun penetration and air circulation. Plant the tomatoes deep in the soil, up to the first set of leaves or deeper. Roots will form all along the stem. Water deeply (long periods of time, once or twice a week) to encourage roots to grow down into the soil. Once the plants are established, start them on a biweekly fertilizer program.

Support:
Tomatoes are vines. They need support to keep the fruit off the ground. Tomato cages will support the plant without additional ties. Until the plants grow that is… Tomatoes don’t know when they have a good thing going and often out grow their cages. At that time, use bamboo poles or tree stakes and tie the plants with twine or covered wire. Place the twine around a main stem and pull it gently toward the stake. Secure the twine to the stake.

No Bloom – What Happened?
Tomato plants that receive fertilizer too high in nitrogen will do a couple of things, none of which are good. They may not bloom at all, or they may drop the blossoms before the fruit has set. In order to prevent this from happening, use a fertilizer low in nitrogen or one specifically formulated for tomato plants.

Once the plants begin blooming, you may need to hand pollinate, especially if your tomatoes are growing inside a greenhouse where there are no natural pollinators. To hand pollinate, you will need a small brush to pick up pollen from one flower and gently transfer it to another. Just tip your brush from flower to flower and pretend you are a bee.

Harvesting:
Once tomatoes start ripening, check vines daily. Cut or gently twist off fruits, supporting the vine at the same time. For best flavor, leave the fruits on the plants for as long as possible. At first sign of heavy frost, harvest all fruits. Green ones will eventually ripen while stored in a warm place out of direct sunlight. Tomatoes require 90-140 days to mature from seed; 60-90 days from transplanting, depending on the variety.

Insects and Diseases:
There are numerous insect and disease problems associated with growing tomatoes (too many to mention here – Google ‘Missouri Horticulture’ to find the U of M Extension website with specific insect/disease solutions). We have listed one of the more common diseases for our area.

Blossom End Rot:
Blossom end rot is a tomato disease usually caused by a calcium deficiency in the soil, although it is sometimes brought on by drought, high salt levels, excess nitrogen or uneven soil moisture. It is identified by a brown mushy spot on the butt end of the tomato. Prevent problems by keeping soil evenly moist and by spraying plants with kelp as a foliar treatment. Adding calcium to the soil at planting time usually prevents the problem from occurring.

Growing Peppers

Peppers need full sun, rich soil (amended with compost, well-rotted manure, or leaf mold) and good drainage. Allow two feet between plants. If the peppers are starting to produce flower buds, pinch them off and continue to do this for 1 to 2 weeks; this forces the plants to put their energy into growing leaves and roots. Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of organic matter. Mulch keeps weed growth down and maintains soil moisture. Stake varieties that grow taller than 2 feet. To avoid problems with cutworms (they can chew young seedlings off at the soil line) place two-inch-tall cardboard or aluminum foil collars around the new plants—with 1-inch below soil level and 1-inch above. Keep the plants lightly moist, but not soggy. Pull any weeds if they appear. Feed the plants with an all-purpose water-soluble fertilizer about six weeks after transplanting and again if the plants start to look pale or the leaves are small.

Diseases and Pests:

Chile peppers are generally quite healthy. Pests are an occasional problem. Tiny green aphids sometimes cluster on the tips of branches. In large numbers, they suck plant juices, which deform the leaves and steal energy from the plant. Aphids can also spread deadly viruses. A strong spray of water from the garden hose can knock aphids off the plants. Caterpillars, including corn earworms and corn borers, destroy the fruits; hornworms eat both fruits and leaves. For information on controlling any pest infestation, contact your local Cooperative Extension Service or ask for advice at a local nursery. Chile peppers are prone to a few virus diseases. There are quite a few viruses in peppers; the most common is tobacco mosaic virus, which causes mottled yellow leaves and misshapen fruits. There are no cures for viruses so the plants must be destroyed. Prevent the disease from spreading by controlling aphids.

Cautions:

Always use caution when handling hot peppers. To protect your hands, use disposable latex gloves. Never touch your face near your eyes, mouth, or nasal passages. Capsaicin is produced primarily in the veins/placental tissue of the pepper, but with an especially hot variety, take care when harvesting. If you accidentally get pepper juice in your eye immediately wash it out with clean cool water. And if you eat too fiery a pepper, get some relief by eating yogurt, ice cream, or milk.

Harvesting:

Most chiles are green when unripe and turn yellow, orange, red, or brown when fully ripe. Individual chiles are considered most flavorful at different stages. For instance, in Mexico, Jalapeños and Serranos are preferable when green, and Cayenne types when red ripe. For fresh eating, it is a matter of personal taste; for drying, fully ripe peppers are best. Harvest chiles once they feel firm and get a glossy sheen. Cut the fruit off with clippers, as the branches of pepper plants are brittle and break off readily.

Preserving:

Dry thin-walled chiles in a warm, dry place or dehydrator until brittle dry. Store the dried chiles in airtight containers. If meal moths frequent your kitchen, store the peppers in zipper-style freezer bags in the freezer. Roast Poblano, Anaheim, and New Mexico chiles and then peel and put in zippered plastic freezer bags and freeze for up to six months.

Containers:

All types of chile peppers can be grown in containers. Large Poblano, New Mexico, Anaheim, and most hybrids are best grown in large containers, such as a half wine barrel. Grow smaller, more compact ornamental peppers in 10” to 12” containers.